Route Description - Delville Wood

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Whilest every effort has been made to ensure that this information is correct, the author takes no responsibilites for the accuracy of the information. It is up to the user to ensure that he/she is climbing the correct route and that it is in his/her ability to do so safely.

Introduction
Delville Wood was noticed in the '80s by various climbers, but none ventured up for a closer look. It was only in 1994 that the first climbers scrambled up to the base to discover its untapped potential.

The crag remains in the shade most of the day and is one of Natal's coolest climbing spots, making Delville Wood a popular summer venue. The crag itself is several hundred metres long, with chossy, vegetated walls interspersed by some of the longest faces in the province. Most of the routes range from 20 to 23 metres in length. All the routes are bolt-protected with chain anchors.

The better lines are to be found on the steep walls, many of which overhang approximately 4 metres in 20. The climbing varies, with most of the better lines comprising an entertaining collection of cracks, rails, layaways, tweaky edges and huge buckets. On these routes prepare yourself for the "pump from hell"! Due to a heavily vegetated top, the more vertical routes unfortunately suffer from sand deposits. However, some good routes can be found.

Overview
To reach the crag drive 1,75 km beyond the Shongweni Dam turnoff. On the left is a sign to Delville Wood Station. Follow the dirt road through the cane plantations and down the hill to the station. Cross the railway lines and continue along the road through a disused rail tunnel. Approximately 200 metres beyond this is the scramble up to the base of the cliffs. (Below a steep wall.) Most of the routes are a further 200 metres to your left. There are chains at the top of the scramble.

 

Aspect: The crag stays in the shade all morning and much of the afternoon, making this an excellent hot weather venue. The routes are described from the end of the crag, working back.

  1. The Howling Harley Wall

  2. Project Keefe Murphy (19+) [5B C]
  3. Howling Harley (25) [6B C]

    The Trench

  4. Field of Poppies (19) [C 5B C]
  5. Baldric's Coffee (22) [8B C]
  6. Feels Like I'm Fixin' to Die (18) [6B C]
  7. Public Service (12) [6B C]
  8. Project Marcel Viljoen (1+) [2B B]
  9. The Great Worm Race (14) [6B C]

    The Battlement

  10. Armed Resistance (23) [6B C]
  11. Fallen Majesty (25) [6B C]
  12. Arms Race (26) [8B C]
  13. The Power Struggle (24) [7B C]

    The Aerial Warfare Wall

  14. Open Project
  15. The Red Baron (25) [9B C]
  16. Incest Ed (26/7) [11B C]
  17. From Zero to Hero (27) [10B C]
  18. Legend of the Lost Limestone (25) [10B C]
  19. Done like a German (24) [10B C]
  20. Cynics' Symposium (22) [9B C]

    The Buggery Wall

  21. Big Bertha (17) [5B C]
  22. Buggery in Austro-Hungary (20) [5B C]
  23. Adrenal Humour (22) [5B C]

    The Doom and Gloom Wall

  24. Open Project
  25. Another Roadside Attraction (23) [6B C]
  26. Funk Green Mesmeric Toadstools (24) [8B C]

    The Howling Harley Wall

  1. Project Keefe Murphy (19+) [5B C]> A thin and nasty excercise. Keefe is making it rain to keep the rout wet
    First Ascent : Keefe Murphy, 199?
  2. Howling Harley (25) [6B C] So called because of the sounds made by Harley Green on the route. Beware, two very good cruxes.
    First Ascent : Kevin Tonkin, 1996

    The Trench

  3. Field of Poppies (19) [C 5B C] Climbs the arete to the left of Baldric's Coffee. Climb the first half of Baldric's Coffee and break left to belay chains. Follow the bolts to the top.
    First ascent: M. Viljoen, 1994
  4. Baldric's Coffee (22) [8B C] Climbs through easy (but dirty) ground to begin and then climbs the headwall which is steeper than it looks!
    First ascent: M. Viljoen, 1994
  5. Feels Like I'm Fixin' To Die (18) [6B C] The first route to the left of the crack. Climbs the face and then through the bulge above. Not the best bolting, making the route live up to its name! "A horrible route spoilt by bad bolting!"
    First ascent: J. McClarren, 1994
  6. Public Service (12) [6B C] The first route at Delville Wood. Originally opened on natural gear - ground up onsight - was immediatelly retrobolted by the first ascentionist and now the standard way to the top. Unfortunately this has resulted in sand being heaped onto the route. Not bad climbing if brushed. Climb the face to the right of the off-width crack.
    First ascent: M. Viljoen and D. Tromp, 1994
  7. Project Marcel Viljoen (1+) [2B B]
  8. The Great Worm Race (14) [6B C] A fun beginner line.
    First Ascent : Kevin Tonkin, 1996

    The Battlement

    The Battlement is the obvious overhanging buttress just beyond the Aerial Warfare wall. The routes are steeper than expected which accounts for the vicious pump they produce! Climbing is on good holds with powerful moves, providing perhaps the best lines here. All routes begin on the ledge. Scramble up the corner and traverse left. There is a bolt around the corner to clip if ou're feeling nervous! Please don't fall off on the scramble! This has been done by Gerald "Crater" Camp, who luckilly found the only sandy landing amongst the sharp boulders 4m bellow.

  9. Armed Resistance (23) [6B C] While being the easiest line on the face this route is by no means a pushover. Large holds make for fun climbing down low. Above are some tiny edges to put you in the mood for the crux - a long move for the mother of all buckets!
    First ascent: K. Tonkin, 1994
  10. Fallen Majesty (25) [6B C] Not as sustained as its neighbours, this line will nevertheless leave your arms crying! Hard moves at the bottom are followed by easier climbing above. Beware of the thin holds at the top.
    First ascent: K. Tonkin, 1994
  11. Arms Race (26) [8B C] The first route opened on the Battlement. Long, powerful moves between good rails interspersed with fingerlocks and layaways combine to produce this classic line. Sustained!
    First ascent: K. Tonkin, 1994
  12. The Power Struggle (24) [7B C] This exercise in technical but powerful climbing follows the steep arete on the right of the Battlement. Sequential moves link together to provide one of the best routes at the crag!
    First ascent: H. Green, 1994

    The Aerial Warfare Wall

  13. Open Project The crack on the extreme left. One bolt already placed low down. Desperate climbing followed by easier ground.
    First ascent:
  14. The Red Baron (26) [9B C] Just left of Incest Ed. Excellent sustained climbing requiring a combination of power, endurance and technique.
    First ascent: K. Tonkin, 1995
  15. Incest Ed (26/7) [11B C] One of the harder routes at Delville Wood. Follows the numerous bolts up the middle of the wall. The middle section needs brushing.
    First ascent: G. Camp, 1994
  16. From Zero to Hero (27) [10B C]
    First ascent: Roger Natrass, 1995
  17. Legend of the Lost Limestone (25) [10B C]
    First ascent: Roger Natrass, 1995
  18. Done like a German (24) [10B C]
    First ascent: Henry from Germany, 1995
  19. Cynics' Symposium (22) [9B C] This route follows the shallow dihedral on the right of the wall. The bottom half is unfortunately rather sandy, but the top makes up for it. Stimulating climbing up layaways just dying to spit you off.
    First ascent: I. Manson, 1994

    The Buggery Wall

    About 200 metres to the right of the Aerial Warfare wall is another smaller face with three routes:

  20. Big Bertha (17) [5B C] A neat route up the left hand side of the wall.
    First ascent: H. Green & S. Davies, 1995
  21. Buggery in Austro-Hungary (20) [5B C] A sneaky move down low followed by easier ground to the top. Fun!
    First ascent: M. Viljoen, 1995
  22. Adrenal Humour (22) [5B C] On the right. Entertaining climbing through the overlap with a classic mantleshelf finish.
    First ascent: P. Brouard & N. de Carvalho, 1995

    The Doom and Gloom Wall

    The first steep wall after the scramble.

  23. Open Project Climbs through rather scary sounding rock. Rather fun climbing though.
    First ascent:
  24. Another Roadside Attraction (23) [6B C] Climbs the steep break in the middle of the wall. Long cranks on good buckets. A bit pumpy!
    First ascent: Kevin. Tonkin, 1995
  25. Funk Green Mesmeric Toadstools (24) [8B C] Stick clip the first bolt. Its second ascentionist nearly flashed it except Kevin went flying with the finishing bucket in his hand.
    First ascent: I. Manson, 199?