Route Description - Magnetic Wall (Shongweni)

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Whilest every effort has been made to ensure that this information is correct, the author takes no responsibilites for the accuracy of the information. It is up to the user to ensure that he/she is climbing the correct route and that it is in his/her ability to do so safely.

The Magnetic Wall
Routes are from the left to the right of the crag when facing the rock.

  1. Oh Mercy (22) [4B C]
  2. Break Out (24) [5B C]
  3. Ians Traverse (22) [5B C]
  4. Something (16)
  5. The Dragon Lady (12) [5B C 1B]
  6. Take Away (25) [4B C]
  7. Reflexions (26/7) [4B C]
  8. Dissing the Homeboys (22) [6B C]
  9. Clock Around the Rock (23) [3B C]
  10. Daves Prow (23) [5B C]
  11. Epilady (21) [4B C]
  12. A fourteen (14) [5B C]
  13. Mindless Jive (22) [4B C]
  14. Moonshine (15) [4B C]
  15. Baboon eats Keyboard Player (21) [4B C]
  16. A Season of Death (22) [7B C]
  17. Tickets and Tenants (13) [5B C]
  18. Gerald Does Pulp Fiction (21) [6B C]
  19. Snail Trail (19) [5B C]
  20. Africa Farewell (17) [5B C]
  21. The Exile (24) [6B C]
  22. Headology (28) [7B C]
  23. Old and In the Way (18) [B C]
  24. Daves 16 (16) [B C]
  25. Mondo Bitch Turns RopeGun (17) [B C]
  26. Jungle Daze (18) [B C]
  27. Natural Born Posers (20) [B C]
  28. Biker Babes in Black Leather (19) [B C]

  1. Oh Mercy (22) [4B C] An extended boulder problem. Steep cranking on large holds. Watch out for the spine-hungry tree below!
    First ascent: T. Mackenzie, 1994

  2. Break Out (24) [5B C] Reach for the hidden holds. Excellent climbing.
    First ascent: C. Robertson, 1994

  3. Ians Traverse (22) [5B C] An excellent diagonal route at the gently steep angle characteristic of this wall. A powerfull move low down leads to sustained climbing and an interesting finish.
    First ascent: I. Manson, 1994

  4. Something (16) An excellent end-of-day beginner line. A technical move through a lip is followed by some ballancy moves and an exposed layback finish.

  5. The Dragon Lady (12) [5B C 1B] Follows the bolts to chains below the block. There is an access bolt on the side of the block. A bit dirty after rain.
    First ascent: Spirit of Adventure, 1994

  6. Take Away (25) [4B C] Climbs the vague crack past four bolts. Superb climbing. A good prospect for your first onsight of this grade - but dont let your ego get too easilly wounded.
    First ascent: C. Robertson, 1993

  7. Reflexions (26/7) [4B C] Safer if lead with an additional 1.5 friend. Thin and reachy.
    First ascent: C. Pearman, 1993

  8. Dissing the Homeboys (22) [6B C] Climbs the face and crack right of Reflexions. Super!
    First ascent: I. Manson, 1993

  9. Clock Around the Rock (23) Short and technical. Nice if you like it thin.
    First ascent: C. Pearman 1993

  10. Daves Prow (23) [5B C] About 20 meters past Clock Around the Rock is a prominent steep prow with a line of u-bolts.
    First ascent Dave Deetleefs 1995


    Between the main face and the Headology area is a scramble with a number sport routes on its left

  11. Epilady (21) [4B C] A short supplety problem. The roof is not all it has to offer. An interesting ride.
    First ascent: Debi Tromp, 1994

  12. A fourteen (14) [5B C] Short and surprisingly technical with a small dose of exposure for beginners.

  13. Mindless Jive (22) [4B C] Up easy ground to a one-move crux.
    First ascent: G. Camp, 1995

  14. Moonshine (15) [4B C] A neat line on the slab finishing up the crack above.
    First ascent: G. Camp, 1995



    The Headology Area

    Just before one reaches the Headology Cave is a small "amphitheatre" which has a few new sport routes.

  15. Baboon eats Keyboard Player (21) [4B C] A steep start with an ankle hungry boulder. Exits at the Tickets and Tennants chains.
    First ascent: Debi Tromp, 1995 bolted by Marcel Viljoen

  16. A Season of Death (22) [7B C] Up the graphite wall to pull through two roofs to chains.
    First ascent: G. Camp, 1995

  17. Tickets and Tenants (13) [5B C] Fun. The diagonal line beneath the roofs/bulges. Pick your bolts.
    First ascent: G. Camp, 1995

  18. Gerald Does Pulp Fiction (21) [6B C] A cool line in the middle of the wall. Pull the roof to finish.
    First ascent: I. Manson, 1995

  19. Snail Trail (19) [5B C] Climb up past bulges to the top.
    First ascent: I. Manson, 1995

  20. Africa Farewell (17) [5B C] Starts in the entrance a couple of paces left of The Exile and finishes up the grey headwall. Dont be tempted onto the ledge. Very good value for 17.
    First ascent G. Camp, 1995

  21. The Exile (24) [6B C] Climbs the steep break on the left of the Headology Cave. Easier to clip the chains if you arent short.
    First ascent: G. Camp, 1995

  22. Headology (28) [7B C] The wild flake line through the large roof. Good holds all the way will not prevent this horizontal trip from blasting your arms into oblivion!
    First ascent: A. Alcock, 1994



    The Red Wall

    From the Headology Cave continue along the base of the crag for around 500m to get to the red wall. This is the stunning long Red (no shit shirley) wall directly opposite the path to the cave from the river bed. All these routes are outstanding long vertical climbs. The best vertical climbing at this grade in Natal!!! Fair exposure too.

  23. Old and In the Way (18) [B C] !
    First ascent: I. Manson, 1995

  24. Daves 16 (16) [B C] !
    First ascent: D. Deetleefs, 1995

  25. Mondo Bitch Turns RopeGun (17) [B C] !
    First ascent: I. Manson, 1995

  26. Jungle Daze (18) [B C] !
    First ascent: K. Tonkin, 1995

  27. Natural Born Posers (20) [B C] The right exit to Jungle Daze
    First ascent: K. Tonkin, 1995

  28. Biker Babes in Black Leather (19) [B C] Dont take this route for granted. Best fun in the house
    First ascent: K. Tonkin, 1995