Route Description - The Wave Cave (Shongweni)
Whilest every effort has been made to ensure that this information is correct, the author takes no responsibilites for the accuracy of the information. It is up to the user to ensure that he/she is climbing the correct route and that it is in his/her ability to do so safely.
The Wave Cave has fast become the centre of Natal's hard sport climbing. Discovered in early 1994, the Cave boasts twenty-seven sport routes ranging from 23 to 32. The lines are all super steep - an element which has given a new dimension to climbing in the province.
You may notice that some of the routes at the Cave have been given split grades (eg: Kicked My Butt (25/6)) Initially we didn't know what the grades really were however a good dose of international climbers have verified the grading, and as always while some accuse the first ascentionists of sandbagging, every now and then a person with oversized genitallia insists that the grades are soft - go and decide for yourself. Just be reminded that dogging a power/endurance route will leave you feeling that it is easier than a redpoint / onsight impression gives.
All routes have carabiner lower-offs but beware: these are leaver-biners so don't take king swings if you value your life! And please don't steal them guys - they're not much good anyway
Access has been a sensitive issue so please remove your quickdraws at the
end of the day. Also please don't light fires or dig holes in the floor. Be
particularly aware of litter
A Blonde's Life (19) [5B C] Not too bad apart from the sand! Unfortunately
this route is going to suffer from heaps of run-off dirt from the top. So
take along your brush.
First ascent: I. Manson, 1995
You Snooze, You Lose (26) [5B C] One of the newer lines here. Climbs the
left hand profile of the cave, following the flakes. Steeper than it looks
and a hard onsight!
First ascent: R. Nattrass, 1995
Mickey and Mallory (26) [6B C] Excellent climbing. Enjoy the boggling two
finger pocket and the sting in the tail! This route also has a powerful
roof move! Seeps badly after rain.
First ascent: R. Nattrass, 1995
Love 'n the Demon (Open Project 31+) First Ascent: K. Tonkin, 199? - used
to be its guide entry. Any takers. A long steep and sustained line, complete
with inverted double knee-bar hands-off sandbag rest that will send vomit
through your nose!
Bolted by Kevin Tonkin First Ascent ?
Wild Sheep Chase (23) [6B C] One of the easier routes in the cave but by
no means a walk in the park! Relatively easy (but strenuous) moves - sure
to leave you gasping.
First ascent: M. Viljoen, 1994
Running Scared (26/7) [9B C] Starts up Wild Sheep Chase, moves right at
the roof, and continues onto Love 'n the Demon to the chains.
First ascent: K. Tonkin, 1995
Wake Up (22) [5B C] A good introduction to this angle. The lower moves
are easy but things get tricky higher up. Reachy moves demand more work
from shorter people. Originally graded 23/24 this route has been downgraded
due to popular demand. It is better to think of it as a "begginer cave line"
than anything else. Many a climber with a vert 24 flash grade hasnt managed
it.
First ascent: K. Tonkin, 1994
Rapture of the Steep (23) [5B C] An entertaining collection of foot and
knee locks. A pocket or two for good measure. Take an extra draw to sort
out the tight screwgate.
First ascent: A. Russell-Boulton, 1994
Pendulus Momentus (29) [9B C] Climbs past Rapture's chains to the anchors
on Love 'n the Demon. The crux is a desperate swing through the roof (no
tight at the lip!) followed by continuous cranking to the top.
First ascent: D. Olds, 1995
Invertigo (28) [8B C] Continuously powerful moves make for a demanding
route. Part of the crux is having enough left in your arms to hang in for
the clip.
First ascent: K. Tonkin, 1994
Sip 'n Fly (26) [7B C] Typical cave climbing. You may decide to blow off
the second last bolt on redpoint.
First ascent: R. Uken, 1994
Kicked My Butt! (25/6) [8B C] Classic trade route. This route may kick
your butt at the chains more than once. (An infamous Natal leach was spat
off thirteen times before kicking back!) (Will ROWAN DRUMMOND please bolt
his own routes?)
First ascent: K. Tonkin, 1994
Cyclone Central (28) [7B C] Another classic testpiece. Two cruxes, the
second being a large lunge for the finishing buckets.
First ascent: R. Nattrass, 1994
Riders in the Storm (30) [11B C] The extension of Cyclone. Horizontal all
the way to the lip.
First ascent: R. Nattrass, 1994
Gladiator (27/8) [7B C] Powerful with a vicious crux. Led out to the chains
(not agreed upon - find out for yourself!).
First ascent: A. Alcock, 1994
Numbskull (22) [5 B C] Right of Gladiator. Climbs past fun features to
the chains - a real classic.
First ascent: G. Camp, 1995
Paragon (30/31) [10B C] A much sought after line. It has been onsighted
twice to date.
First ascent: R. Nattrass, 1994
Anthrax (29)
First ascent: R. Nattrass, 1995
The Dreams of Sharon Tate (27) [10B C] The "slab from hell"! Thin holds
on the "slab" leave your forearms ready for the ride out to the chains.
First ascent: K. Tonkin, 1994
Frikkie Fish Legs (26) [8B C] Aided, bolted, rebolted, toproped, dogged,
attempted, reattempted but not opened by RB!
First ascent: A. Russell-Boulton, 1994
Barricade (31/2) Only onsighted once todate. Rated to be around 8b+.
First ascent: R.Nattrass, 1995
The Stone Temple Pilots (26/7) [8B C] Excellent steep climbing! Possibly
the most continuously overhanging route in the cave. Relatively easy cranking
down low followed by powerful crux moves. However it has been wet for the
whole of 1996.
First ascent: I. Manson, 1995
Fat Freddie and the attack of the killer Cockroaches (28) [9B C] A less
direct start to Stone Temple Pilots where the low moves are more cruxy than
you want followed by the powerful Pilots' crux moves.
First ascent: I. Manson, 1995
The Eternal Suffering (24/5) [6B C] Short and sharp. Warning: The 6'2"
first ascentionist found this reachy!
First ascent: H. Green, 1994
Moment of Inertia (28) [6B C] The second route as you arrive at the cave.
Climbs up the smooth face and through two powerful roofs to the chains.
First ascent: D. McHendry & D. Olds, 1995
Jays' route (23) [6B C] The first route as you arrive at the cave. Why
is it that nobody knows the names of Jays climbs???.
First ascent: D. McHendry & D. Olds, 1995